Thursday, February 16, 2012

The Care and Feeding of your Longbow

By Brian Caton

So you are now the proud owner of a beautiful, handmade English Longbow. You’ve waited days, weeks, even months for it to arrive and now you hold it in your hands. You marvel at the craftsmanship and fine lines of the stave. The waxy feel of the string. Hopefully you realize the amount of time and love that the Boyer has put into what you now cradle in your hands. And then maybe it dawns on you if you are a beginner, how the heck do I take care of this thing?
Well it may not be rocket science but there are some things to remember. First off, Temperature: Keep the bow away from excessive heat such as closed inside a hot car, left in direct hot sun or stored in a container also in direct sun, hung over indoor heat vents or other heat sources. Also, please do not shoot the bow in temperatures above 110º F (43.3º C) or below 20º (-6.6º C). Bad things have been known to occur. But as most tourney events or Reenactments happen well within that range you should be all set.
The Second thing to remember is Storage. Never store the bow while strung or while wet. Unstring the bow and wipe it down with a soft cloth. And obviously, never dry the bow next to an open flame. Leaving the bow strung will affect the memory of the wood and moisture with cause mold and other nasty stuff to grow all over your new baby. It’s also best if you can buy, or better yet, make a traditional bow bag that holds the bow and string for storage and transport. These bags are cloth or canvas sleeves, closed at one end, that slide up around the stave and are a very simple design that can even be made by the beginner seamstress.
The Third issue is regular maintenance. Most modern longbows made today are finished with a modern waterproof varnish that requires minimum attention. But some longbows, such as mine, are still being made with traditional or historical finishes that require some upkeep from time to time. What this means is that they need to be oiled and sanded from time to time. I oil my bows once or twice a year depending on use and sand any nicks when needed with a fine grit paper (400grit or higher).
Most traditional Boyers advise using pure Tung oil (also known as China wood oil) while some people have also recommended linseed oil. Either can be found at most paint supply stores such as Sherman Williams. Both oils provide a tough, highly water-resistant finish when properly applied. The difference being Tung oil does not darken noticeably with age as linseed oil does and linseed is susceptible to mold where Tung oil is not. Be aware though that there are now Tung oil finishes out on the market that is not the pure Tung oil. I suggest checking with your Boyer for their recommendations if you didn’t at the time of being fitted for your bow.
Sanding should only take a few swipes of the paper. You aren’t trying to remove layers of the grain. You just need to blend the nick or scrape back into the stave.
To apply the oil, use a soft cloth and rub a light coat of the oil onto the stave. It’s best to let the stave sit at least 24 hours between coats to allow the oil to absorb. The number of coats depends on how thirsty the wood is. Usually three or four coats will do. You’ll be able to tell when it’s had enough when the oil leaves a film on the stave, after 24 hours, that you can wipe away with a cloth.
Your bow is now ready for use or storage.

Let the Grey Geese Fly: Stringing Your Longbow

By Brian Caton

Here are some tips and things to remember when stringing your longbow. There are numerous ways to string your bow and here are just three.

The Bastard String Method

The Bastard String is a secondary string that is as long as the stave and has either a loop or leather pockets at each end. Do not use this method if your bow has horn knocks! To use, first slide both ends of the bow string onto the stave and set the end on the lower limb in the string knock.
Attach one loop of the Bastard String to the upper nock of the upper limb. Then attach the other loop of the Bastard String to the lower limb below the bow string.
With the bow held horizontal by one hand on the handle, with the back of the bow facing up, place one foot on the Bastard String, directly underneath the bow handle. For safety reasons, and for a better view, turn your face to the side of the upper limb. Next, pull up on the bow handle and slide the bow string on the upper limb into the nock with your other hand. This will take a little strength but your bow string should be strung. Keep your face turned as much as possible during this operation. If done right you’ll now be able to remove the Bastard String.

The Step-through Method

This method requires the most upper body strength and coordination. Start by first sliding both ends of the bow string onto the stave and set the end on the lower limb in the string knock.
Next, step through the bow with your right foot (if you’re right handed) with the lower limb belly of the stave resting against the back of your right calf. The lower limb tip should be resting against your left shin. The string should now be in front of your right shin.
Grasping the upper limb with your right hand, pull towards your front, flexing the stave. Slide the upper end of the bow string into its upper limb knock with your left hand. Now take a breath.

The Push Down Method


This Method might be the simplest. Start by first sliding both ends of the bow string onto the stave and set the end on the lower limb in the string knock.
Next hold the stave with your right hand (if you’re right handed) with the back side facing up towards you and set the lower limb tip into the arch of your right foot. Grasp the upper limb and string with your left hand and, while pushing down on the limb, slide the string up towards the upper tip. You’ll also need to pull upwards with your right hand as you go. This flexes the stave enough for you to string the bow.

Tuning the Bow

If the string is properly twisted and strung it should align down the center of the stave. You should also be able to place your fist with thumb fully extended onto the face of the handle and just touch the string with your thumb. If not, unstring the bow at the upper limb and twist or untwist the string till it reaches the desired tension. Remember, the tighter the twist, the more flex in the stave and distance from the bow face.

Also Remember…

When strung a traditional bow is considered 80% broken so never pull a wooden bow beyond its stated draw length, which should be written on the belly of the bow below the handle. For example, 20# @ 24” would indicate that the bow pulls 20 pounds at 24 inches, measured from the back of the bow. (The side opposite the pound/draw numbers is the back of the bow). A good anchor point to go to is the side of the mouth when drawing the bow. Place the first knuckle of your thumb of your drawing hand just after the side of your mouth. If the bow is over-drawn, it may break. In other words, DO NOT pull the string back beyond the written inches...EVER! This is why it is important to have the bow properly fit to you PRIOR to purchase. And do not let anyone else draw your bow who has not been fitted to it.

Wooden bows are sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity. After stringing a bow, it is a good idea to pull it a few times half way, before pulling to full draw, especially if the bow is subject to a drastic change in temperature.

You should always use a wooden feathered arrow which is at least as long as the stated draw length of the bow. On most wooden bows, the first knuckle of your left hand (if right handed) is the arrow rest. It is a good idea to frequently check your arrows for cracks or loose feathers to avoid injury to your hand. When shooting off the hand, a glove is recommended to reduce the effects of shooting a bow without an arrow shelf.